Manufacture of shoes



Aug. 27, 1935. M. w. TETLOW MANUFACTURE OF SHOES 5- Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Oct. 30, 1953 M. w. TETLow MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Aug. 27,1935.

Filed Oct. so; 1935 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 EE 3M Aug. 27, 1935. w. ow 2012,1325

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Oct. 30, 1933 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 M. w. TETLOW 2,012,325

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Oct. :50, 1933' 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented Aug. 27, 1935 MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Max W. Tetlow, Boston, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application October 30, 1933, Serial No. 695,823

I 29 Claims. (Cl. 12-142) This invention relates to improvements in shoes and the manufacture thereof and is illustrated herein particularly with respect to cement lasting.

It is an object of the present invention to proli vide an improved method of manufacturing shoes characterized by the elimination of lasting tacks or staples so that the entire shoe bottom, or at least the shank portion and forepart of the shoe, when lasted and ready for the attachment of its outsole, will be free from metallic fastenings. As the outsoles of such shoes are attached either by stitching or by cement my improved method provides for the manufacture of shoes the shanks and foreparts of which are free from metallic fastenmgs.

My invention, invarious of its aspects, comprises not only the novel method referred to above but includes also a shoe the upper or which is secured in lasted relation to the insole in accordance with my invention, and improved insoles and shoe uppers prepared as hereinafter described to facilitate the practice of the method of my invention. As herein disclosed the marginal portion of the shoe upper, or of one or more of its layers, is composed of threads of a substance which is soluble in an organic solvent, for example threads of a cellulose ester or ether such as cellulose acetate, or a strip of such material is secured, preferably but not necessarily by stitching, to the portion of the insole. This soluble material is treated with an organic solvent, for example acetone, thereby forming cement. The shoe upper is worked into lasted relation to an insole and last with this cement between the marginal portion of the exposed surface of the insole and the overlasted portion of the shoe upper, the upper being held in lasted relation, for' example by tacks or staples, while the cement sets. After the cement has set the tacks or staples are removed. It will be apparent that the details of the method outlined above may be varied to a consid-erable extent without departing from my in vention, wherefore the following specification and the accompanying drawings should be taken in an illustrative rather than in a restrictive sense.

With the above and other objects in view the invention will now be described with reference to M vention and. showing'a shoe and its insole assemmarginal portion of the upper or to the marginal bled upon a last with its upper secured in pulledover condition; Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the same shoe after it has been side lasted in accordance with my invention;

Fig. 3 is a longitudinal sectional view through lasted;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view illustrating the lasting of the ends of the shoe with the aid of a bed enlarged scale, of a portion of the upper, insole.

and outsole of the completed shoe;

Figs. 7 and 8 are perspective views, taken after the pulling over and side lasting operations respectively, illustrating a variation in the practice of my invention;

the toe portion of the shoe after the toe has been Figs.,9 and 10 are perspective views showing 7 successive stages in the toe lasting of the shoe of Figs. 7 and 8;

Fig..11 is a sectional view through the toe por- .tion of the shoe of Fig. 10 after it has been removed from the bed lasting machine;

Figs. 12 and 13 are perspective views of insoles prepared in two different manners for the pra'c: tice of the method of my invention;

Fig. 14 is a perspective view of a shoe embodying the insole of Fig. 12, the upper and insole having been assembled on a last and the toe portion of the upper pulled over preparatory to lasting in accordancewith my invention;

Fig. 15 is a transverse sectional view on an enlarged scale through one side of the shoe of Fig.

' 14, the upper being temporarily secured in lasted In the manufacture of shoes, as illustrated in Figs. 1 to 6, the shoe upper and insole are prepared in accordance with the practice usual in the manufactureof compo shoes except that the lining of the shoe, and preferably also the doubler, if one be used, is composed of a fabric at least part of .the threads of which are of a material readily soluble in a suitable organic solvent. Preferably these threads are composed of a soluble cellulose derivative such a celluose ester or ether, for example cellulose e ate. Accordingly, the shoe illustrated in Figs. 1 to 6 is provided with a multl-ply upper comprising an outer layer Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,711,956,

lose acetate fibre. In this connection it may be worth while to note at this time that the cellulose acetate material at present availableunder the trade name Celanese is well adapted to use for this purpose, though it should be understood that other cellulose esters and ethers may also be used.

As illustrated in Fig. 1, an insole mend a shoe upper, which contains, in addition to the layers previously mentioned, a toe box 22 preferably of fabric impregnated with pyroxylin, as disclosed in granted May '1, 1929,'on an application filed in the name of Stanley P. Lovell, and a counter 26 of the same or any other suitable material, have been assembled upon a last 25 in the usual manner after which the upper is pulled over and secured in pulled-over position by the usual tacks, as indicated at 26. The marginal portion of the upper and the forward portion of the counter 24 at ap-' proximately the heel breast line may, if desire be temporarily secured in position by tacks 8 which are to be removed before the sole of the shoe is attached and, therefore, are preferably left with their heads upstanding somewhat from the shoe upper.

The shoe is now ready for the side lasting 'operation. With this in view, the marginal portion of the lining and doubler of the shoe are treated, between the heel breast line and the pulling over tacks adajcent to the toe of the shoe, with a suitable solvent for the soluble cellulose derivative of the lining and doubler, for example acetone, after which, while the cement formed by the action of the solvent on the cellulose derivative is soft, the upper is worked into lasted relation to the insole and last between the heel breast line'and the pulling over tacks in the vicinity of the tip line, and is secured in that relation either by staples, as indicated at 39 in Figs. 2'and 4, or by tacks, as shown at 11M in Fig. 15, which'hold the upper in lasted position while the cement is setting. Since these staples or tacks are later to be removed they are eration may be performed with a side lasting machine oi the character disclosed in Letters Patent of the United'States No. 1,815,297, granted July 21,'1931, on'an application filed in the name of George Goddu, the machine being adjusted so that the staples are driven only far enough to leave them with their bars projecting somewhat from the upper material, as disclosed in Fig. 4 (for example) of Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,932,544, granted October 31, 1933, on an applicatlon filed in the name of said Goddu.

After the side lasting tacks or staples have been driven the shoe is ready for the toe and heel lasting. This may be advantageously performed with the aid of a bed lasting machine of usual type, as indicated in Fig. 4. The last 25 on which the shoe is mounted is placed on the last pin 32 of the machine with its toe portion supported by the usual toe rest 34 and the toe band 36 is brought into place in the usual manner. After this the wipers 38 and 40 at the toe end of the machine are operated to wipe the upper in over the insole at the toe end of the shoe. The wipers are then withdrawn and the layers of the upper at the toe separated sufliciently to enable the operator to moisten the fabric of the lining M and doubler I2 and of the box toe 22 with'acetone or other suitable solvent It is generally desirable before applying this solvent to trim off any surplus material that may be present in the layers which are to be activated so as to avoid the presence of lumps or bunches which might interfere with the toe lasting operation. After the solvent has been applied the wipers 38 and 40 are' again operated to bring the upper into its final lasted condition, the wipers then being backed off just sufiiciently to receive a toe binder 92 which, as illustrated, is of the character disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,894,678, granted.

January 17, 1933, on an application filed in the name of Joseph Fausse. The wipers 38 and lflare then brought forward again with their edges overlying the bottom flange of the binder l2 and a clamp member 96 is applied to the binder and secured to the bottom of the last by a tack 66, as disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 2,004,239, granted June 11, 1935, on an applicationlfiled in the name of Isabelle W. Goddu, executrix of the will of George Goddu, deceased.

The heel end of the shoe is then lasted in similar fashion, except that, on account of the longer radius of curvature of the heel end of the shoe than of the toe, it will not ordinarily be necessary to trim away layers of the shoe upper. Before lasting the heel seat of the shoe the tacks 28 and whatever assembling tacks have been inserted should be removed. After this the material of the lining and doubler is treated with a solvent such as acetone, as related in connection with the lasting of the toe, and the heel binder 50 is applied and held by the wipers 52 while the clamp member E l is positioned and secured by the tack 56.

It should be understood that it is in no way essential that the binders 32 and 59 be used since obviously the shoe upper may be held at the toe and heel by other means while the cement sets, for example by tacks as indicated in Fig. 15. Furthermore, if a shoe manufacturer is not insistent upon a tackless heel seat the heel end of the shoe may be lasted in the usual manner, with the aid of tacks which remain in the shoe.

After the shoe has been lasted, as illustrated in Fig. 4, it is removed from the bed laster and allowed to rest, for example in the usual rack, until thcement has set. After this the clamps M and 59 and the binders 32, 59 are removed and the staples 39 or the corresponding tacks and the insole tacks, illustrated at 53 in Figs. 1 and 2, are pulled, thus leaving the shoe in the condition illustrated in Fig. 5, with its bottom entirely free from metallic fastenings of any sort.

i The shoe may be finished in any usual or desired manner. Any surplus upper stock is trimmed off, a suitable shank piece and filler inserted, and an outsole attached. Thus, as illustrated in Fig. 6, the shoe is provided with a sheet filler 60 to fill the space bounded by the margin of the upper at the forepart of the shoe and with an outsole 62 attached, as indicated at 6%, with the aid of pyroxylin or other suitable cement. Fig. 6 also iiany of the material of the inner lustrates the manner in which the cotton or other p shoe made in accordance with the method of my invention, it should be understood that the invention is also applicable to the manufacture of shoes of other types. Thus the outsole instead of being attached by cement may be attached by through-and-through stitching. Furthermore, it will be apparent that the invention is applicable to use in the manufacture of shoes of other types than those in which the upper is lasted inwardly flat against the surface of an insole. Obviously, it may be applied also to the manufacture of shoes 'in which the upper is lasted to a ribbed or shouldered insole as well as to shoes of the stitchdown type in which the upper is turned outwardly from the last against the projecting marginal portion of an insole.

Instead of making the whole of the lining, and the doubler if one there be, of fabric of the character described in connection with Figs. 1 to 6, the lining and/or the doubler may be formed of cotton or other relatively insoluble fabric having, as illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8, strips 10, 12, and M of soluble fabric secured, as by stitching, to their marginal portions. The shoes of Figs. 7 and 8 are assembled, pulled over and side lasted like the shoes of Figs. 1 to 6 except that the fabric from Fig. 11

which the lasting cement is to be formed consists merely of strips in the form of tape, braid or the like stitched, as indicated at 16, to the respective layers of the upper. s As illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8 these strips extend merely from the heel breast line forwardly about the toe and back to the heel breast line at the other side of the shoe, the idea being that in this instance the heel seat portion of the shoe is to be lasted with suitable driven fastenings. The toe of this shoe may be lasted in a manner similar to that described in connection with Fig. 4, as illustrated particularly in Figs. 9, 10, and 11.

that the lining and doubler of the overlasted marginal portion of the finished shoe are of their original substance. This has been illustrated in and in the cross sectional portion of Figs. 9 and 10. After the cement at the sides and toe of the shoe has set the toe binder and temporary fastenings will be removed and the shoe finished as desired.

Further variations in the practice of my invention are illustrated in Figs. 12 to 16, inclusive, in which the fabric from which the lasting cement is to be formed is secured to the insole instead of forming a part of or being secured tothe shoe upper. Thus, Fig. 12 illustrates an insole I8 hav-.

ing a strip 80 of portion of the insole 18. Fig. 13 illustrates an insole 84 having a strip 86 of cellulose acetate fabic extending only from its heel breast line forwardly about the toe of the insole and back to the heel breast line at the other side of the insole.

It will be obvious that if the heel seat portion of the shoe is to be lasted with the aid 'of driven fastenings which remain in the shoe it will be unnecessary to apply the strip 86 to the marginal por- This shoe, it will be observed, will differ from that illustrated in Fig. 6 principally in tion of the heel seat of the insole. Fig. 13, moreover, illustrates the strip 86 as secured to the insole by spots of cement 88 which may be formed merely by moistening spots on the strip 86 with a suitable solvent, such as acetone, or may be formed by applying pyroxylin or other suitable cement to the insole or to the strip 86. The insole I8 or 84 may be secured to a last by the usual insole tacks 58 and the last and the shoe upper assembled and pulled over, as illustrated in Fig. 14. The shoe upper illustrated in Fig. 14 consists of an outer layer. of upper leather I00 and a lining I02, the lasting allowance of the latter being only about half the usual width so that when the shoe is lasted it will project only to about the middle of the strip 80. This permits the overlasted marginal portion of the upper leather I00 to extend beyond the edge of-the lining I02 and to have direct contact with the cement formed by the action of a solvent on the soluble cellulose derivative of the strip 80. This will be apparent from a consideration of. Fig. 14 and'is illustrated in cross section in Fig. 15 in which the I shoe upper is illustrated as held in lasted relation by a tack I04 while the cement sets. After the lasting operation has been completed, the cement set, and the temporary fastenings removed, the shoe is completed in any usual or desired manner. Thus is may be provided with a suitable filler at the forepart, as illustrated at I06 in Fig. 16, and the outsole I08 attached by cement, as indicated at I I0, or in any other suitable manner.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A shoe having an upper the marginal portion of which consists at least in part of threads composed of a substance which by solution in an organic solvent forms cement, the upper being seportion of the upper.

2. A shoe having a multi-ply upper the lining of which is composed of a fabric at least part of the thread of which is of a substance which by solution in an organic solvent forms cement, the upper being secured in lasted relation to the insole of the shoe bycement formed by the action of said organic solvent on the material of the marginal portion of the lining.

3. Ashoe having a multi-ply upper the lining of which is composed of a fabric at'least part of the thread of which is composed of a cellulose ester or ether, the upper being secured in lasted relation to the insole of the shoe by cement formed by the action of an organic solvent on the material of the cellulose ester or ether threads at the marginal portion of the lining.

4. A shoe having a multi-ply upper the lining of which consists of a fabric a substantial part at least of the thread of which is composed of cellulose acetate, the upper being secured in lasted relation to the insole of the shoe by cement formed by the action of an organic solvent on the cellulose acetate of the threads of the marginal portion of the lining.

5. A shoe having a multi-ply upper the lining of which is composed of a fabric part of the thread ofwhich is of a substance which by solution in an organic solvent forms cement andthe remainder of which is insoluble in said solvent, the upper being secured in lasted relation to the insole of the shoe by cement formed by the action of said organic olvent on the material of the turing shoes which comprises assembling upon'a lasted relation to cement between the insole and the overlasted soluble threads at the marginal portion of the lining.

6. That improvementin methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assembling an insole and an upper upon a last, the shoe upper having a strip of a readily soluble cellulose derivative secured to the insoleengaging surface of its lasting allowance, treating the cellulose derivative with a solvent therefor and thereby forming cement, working the upper into lasted relation, with the insole and last with said cement between the insole and the overlasted portion of said upper, and holding the uppe in lasted relation to the insole while the cement sets.

7. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises working the marginal portion of a shoe upper into lasted relation to an insole and last with cement, formed by treating a strip of fabric composed of a readily soluble cellulose derivative with a solvent therefor, between the insole and the overlasted portion of the upper, and holding the upper in lasted relation to the insole and last while the cement sets.

8. That improvement in methods of manufaclast an insole and a multi-ply shoe upper the marginal portion of the lining of which isprovided with threads of" readily soluble material which -upon-solution in a suitable solvent forms cement,

treating the marginal portion of the lining with said solvent and thereby dissolving said soluble material and forming cement, working the upper into lasted relation to the insole and last, and securingthe upper temporarily in lasted relation while said cement sets. I

9. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assembling upon a last an insole and a multi-ply shoe upper the marginal portion of the lining of which consiss of a fabric part at least of the soluble material of the upper, and forming cement, working the upper into lasted relation to the insole and last, and securing it temporarily in lasted relation while said cement sets.

10. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assemblingupon a last an insole and a multi-ply' shoe upper the marginal portion of the lining of which consists 'of a fabric part of the thread of which is of material readily soluble in an organic solvent and which, by solution in said solvent, forms cement and part of the thread of which is of material insoluble in said solvent, treating the marginal portion of the lining with said solvent and thereby dissolving the soluble material of the upper an forming cement, working the upper into lasted relation to the insole and last, and securing it temporarily in lasted relation while said cement sets.

11. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assembling an insole and a shoeupper on a last, the marginal portionof one of said shoe parts being provided with a strip of fabric comprising threads of material which is soluble in an organic solvent thereby forming cement, treating said fabric with said solvent and, by its action on the soluble threads, forming cement, working the upper, into the insole and last with. said the thread .of which, is of material readily soluble in an" organic solportion of said upper, and inserting 'temporary' fastenings to hold the upper in lasted relation to the insole and last while the cement sets.

12. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assembling an upper in lasted relation to the insole and last, while said cement sets.

13. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assembling upon a last an insole and a multi-ply upper having a doubler and lining composed of a fabric comprising threads which are soluble in an organic solvent and, when dissolved by said solvent, forms pement and threads which are insoluble in said solvent, treating the marginal portion of the lining and doubler with said-solvent and, by its action on the soluble threads, forming cement,

working the upper into lasted relation to the insole and last, and driving fastenings through the a upperand into the insole to hold the upper in lasted relation while said cement sets.

14. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching a strip of fabric composed of a readily soluble cellulose derivative to the inner surface of the marginal portion of a shoe upper, assembling the upper and an insole on a last, applying to the soluble fabric a solvent therefor and thereby forming cement,

working the upper into lasted relation to the insole-and last, and holding it in lasted relation while said cement sets. a j

15. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching strips derivative tothe inner surface of the marginal portions of the various layers of a multi-ply shoe upper, assembling the upper and an insole on a last, applying to the soluble fabric a solvent therefor and thereby forming cement, working the upper into lasted relation to the insole and last,-

and inserting temporary fastenings to hold 'itin lasted relation while said cement sets..

16. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises applying to the upper engaging surface of an insole a strip of-cellulose ester fabric and securing the strip to the insole by cement formed by treating portions of the strip with a solvent for said cellulose ester, assembling said insole and a shoe upper on a last, treating the strip of cellulose ester fabric with. a solvent therefor and thereby forming cement, and working the shoe upper into lasted relation to the insole and last and holding it in lasted relation while said cement sets.-

17. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises applying to the upper engaging surface of an insole a strip of cellulose acetate fabric and securing the strip to the insole by cement formed by treating portions of .the strip with an organic solvent for cellulose acetate, assembling said insole and a shoe upper on a last, treating the strip fabric with a solvent therefor of cellulose acetate and thereby forming cement, and working the shoe upper into last-' 18. That improvement in methods of manufacof fabric composed of a readily soluble cellulose M the form of threads of material in an organic solvent'and which, upon solution in turing shoes which comprises securing to the marginal portion of the upper engaging surface of an insole a strip of material which, upon treatment with a suitable solvent, forms cement, assembling upon a last said insole and a shoe upper the outer layer of which has a normal lasting allowance and the inner layer or layers of which has a lasting allowance substantially narrower than that of the outer layer, treating the strip of fabric on the insole with said solvent thereby forming cement, working the upper into lasted relation to the insole and last, and inserting temporary fastenings to hold it in that relation while said cement is setting.

19. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises stitching to the marginal portion of the upper engaging surface of an insole a strip of fabric composed of material which, upon treatment with a suitable solvent, forms cement, assembling upon a last said insole and a shoe upper the outer layer of which has a normal lasting allowance and the inner layer of which has a lasting allowance about half the width of that of the outer layer, treating the strip of fabric on the insole with said solvent and thereby forming cement, working the upper into lasted relation to the insole and last and driving temporary fastenings to hold it in that relation while said cement is setting.

20. A shoe upper the lasting allowance of which is provided at its inner surface with textile fabric at least a part of the thread of which is composed of a cellulose derivative readily soluble in an organic solvent.

21. A multi-ply shoe upper the lasting allowance 6f the inner layer or lining of which is provided with a substantial quantity of material in readily soluble said solvent, forms cement.

.22. A multi-ply shoe upper the lasting allowance of the inner layer or lining of which-consists of a fabric composed at least in part of threads of material soluble in an organic solvent and which, uponsolution in said solvent, forms cement.

23. A multi-ply shoe upper the inner layer or lining of which consists of a fabric composed at least in part of threads of material soluble in an organic solvent and which, upon solution in said solvent, forms cement.

24. A shoe upper having a strip of fabric, the threads of which are composed of a cellulose derivative readily soluble in an organic solvent, stitched to its lasting allowance.

25.,An insole having a strip of material secured to the marginal portion of its upper engaging surface, said rnatcrial comprising a fabric the threads of which consist at least in part of material readily. soluble in an organic solvent.

26. An insole having a strip of material stitched to the marginal portion of its upper engaging surface, said material comprising a fabric the threads of which consist at least in part of a cellulose derivative readily soluble in an organic I solvent.

27. An insole having a strip of material stitched to the marginal portion of its upper engaging surface, said material comprising a fabric the. threads of which consist at least in part of cellulose acetate.

28. An insole having a strip of fabric, the

' threads of which consist at least in part of a 

